Dress under the Microscope: Contributions of Science and Technology to the...

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National Museum of Theatre and Dance & National Museum of Costume

Largo Júlio de Castilho Lumiar, 1600-483



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The conference aims to generate a discussion around specific examples of how science and technology complement other approaches in the interdisciplinary field of early modern dress. Whether looking at innovative conservation treatments, cutting edge technological reconstructions, the digitisation of various sources or optical image recognition, science and technology have helped us to understand and value historical garments and textiles.



10:00 Registration

10:00-10:30 Morning Coffee and Tea

10:30-11:00 Welcome

11:00-12:30 Session 1: When Was it Made and What is it Made of

Chair: [TBC]

11:00-11:20 Speed Dating or Slow Dating? The Challenges of Interdisciplinary Analysis of Early Modern Materials

Jane Anne Malcolm-Davies (Centre for Textile Research, University of Copenhagen & The Tudor Tailor)

11:20-11:40 Examination of Metal Thread for Comparison of 16th-Century Bobbin Made Gold and Silver Borders

Lena Dahrén (Uppsala University)

11:40-12:00 Identifying Plant Fibre Finds from Hailuoto, Northern Ostrobothnia, Finland

Jenni A. Suomela (University of Helsinki)

12:00-12:30 Discussion

12:30-14:00 Lunch break

14:00-15:30 Session 2: How it Was Made

Chair: [TBC]

14:00-14:20 Characterization of an 18th-Century Robe à la française from the Gemeentemuseum Costume Collection in The Hague (the Netherlands)

Cesar Rodriguez Salinas (Gemeentemuseum Den Haag)

14:20-14:40 Stitching History Together: Using Scientific Methods and Citizen Science to Understand Early Modern Stockings

Piia Lempiäinen (Aalto University)

14:40-15:00 Proceeding Precious Pearls: Using Material Science and Technical Studies on 17th-Century Objects Embroidered with Pearls

Marjolein Koek (Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam)

15:00-15:30 Discussion

15:30-16:00 Coffee and Tea Break

16:00-17:30 Session 3: What it Looked Like

Chair: [TBC]

16:00-16:20 Gold and Silver Discovered: Two Archaeological 17th-Century Textile Finds Adorned With Metal Threads Revealed by EDX- analysis and X-radiography

Maj Ringgaard (Centre for Textile Research, University of Copenhagen)

16:20-16:40 ‘Seeing’ What it Was Like without Touching: A Replica Approach for Holistic Research

Annelena de Groot (independent)

16:40-17:00 Applying Material Culture to the Study of an Eighteenth-century New Hispanic Court Dress as Means for Conservation

Laura G. García Vedrenne (Fine Arts Museum San Francisco)

17:00-17:30 Discussion


10:00-11:30 Session 4: Digital Data Analysis

Chair: [TBC]

10:00-10:20 The CarpetACT Project: A Non-Invasive Automatic Approach for Unprecedented Interpretations about The Construction of Islamic Carpets

Ana Filipa Serrano (Cultural Heritage Agency of the Netherlands)

10:20-10:40 Using Multimedia Data Programs for Detailed Analysis of Early Modern Dress

Cecilia Aneer (Textile Studies, Department of Art History, Uppsala University)

10:40-11:00 Re-Dressing the Evidence: A Database of Henrietta Maria’s Clothing Accounts

Erin Griffey (University of Auckland)

11:00-11:30 Discussion

11:30-14:00 Lunch Break and Museum Tour/Visit

14:00-15:30 Session 5: In Search of Historical Evidence

Chair: [TBC]

14:00-14:20 Newspanish Red: Antonio Alzate and the First Scientific Observations of Grana Cochinilla

Andreia Martins Torres (CHAM-Centro de Humanidades)

14:20-14:40 A Black Powdered Enigma: Soiling as Historical Evidence Depicted on a British Military Jacket from the Late 18th Century

Eva Maria Catic (Centre for Textile Conservation, University of Glasgow)

14:40-15:00 From Microscope to Archive and Back Again: How Microscopes, Social Media, and Collaboration Can Lead to New Findings in Dress History

Sophie Pitman (Aalto University)

15:00-15:30 Discussion

15:30-15:45 Closing Remarks

15.45-17:30 Farewell Coffee and Tea


Jola Pellumbi and Sara van Dijk (Dressing the Early Modern Network)

We would like to thank TTT network, CHAM and the National Museum of Theatre and Dance & National Museum of Costume for hosting this event and for their collaboration with various aspects of organising. With special thanks to Ana Serrano, Maria João Ferreira, Ana Claro, Raquel Santos, Andreia Martins Torres.

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National Museum of Theatre and Dance & National Museum of Costume

Largo Júlio de Castilho Lumiar, 1600-483



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