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Seeing alcohol-fueled partying around a towering red cross—followed by a somber procession—was poignant and powerful. Everyone ran to the streets to be a part of the religious ceremony. Trumpets blared a fanfare, children carried a homemade float, and candles jostled in unison as the marchers glided in the dark of the night. While I desperately wanted my crew to be filming everything at once, we stayed focused on the meal.

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