DENIM MAKING + DENIM THEORY MASTERCLASS

Mohsin Sajid, a British Fashion Designer and graduate of Westminster University (2002), is a highly accomplished denim specialist, acclaimed pattern cutter and ergonomic tailor. He has worked for some of the best denim and apparel companies in the global industry for the last 17 years.Starting his career at Oki-ni, he designed for Levi’s Japan, Levi’s Europe, Evisu, and Aquascutum. He then consulted for several prestigious brands from: Edwin Europe, Pringle of Scotland, John Richmond, Puma AG, Ducati, DKNY JEANS International, Timberland and Jil Sander.For the last 5 years Mohsin together with his wife Sadia Rafique have been consulting for many denim mills and apparel manufactures under their 74MMA consultancy, notably Desert Studio in Dubai, Kassim Denim, US Apparel Group, Neela Denim ( Sapphire Group ) and Pioneer Denim.Most recently Mohsin has been a consultant designer for Lenzing and Jeanologia.Highly sort after his own consulting dutys have lead him to design for many from: Abercrombie & Fitch, Vivienne Westwood, Jack Wills, Lyle & Scott and High street labels: House of Fraser, Topman, Topshop, River island, Primark Zara, Guess Jeans, Fatface, Burton, Next, M&S, Mothercare, Shop Direct, Tesco and Asda.Mohsin is also a vintage denim machine specialist and vintage denim collector amassing an archive of around 1000 vintage garments. Mohsin is one of a handful of designers to be invited to attend Cone Denim College in Greensboro, North Carolina USA and completed his Denim Pilgrimage, in Kojima, Okiyama Japan.Mohsin has a passion for building local industry and education, helping establish Blackhorse Lane Ateliers in East London in 2015, and running his own Denim Master classes there every 3 months. His keen interest in raising the next generation of denim designers reflecting in his role as MA university lecturer at The Royal College of Art, and BA lecturer at Westminster, Ravensbourne Universities and London College of Fashion.He has also lectured in over 13 universities across the world the past 15 years. Every season he personally sponsors up to 6 students with full denim sponsorship – partnering with Cone Denim and Kaihara Denim mill in Japan every season.From September 2018, Mohsin has also been lead denim lecturer at the newly created “Denim School of Milan”, working in partnership with Acof Moda Fashion School in Milan, Candiani Denim and laundry and dyeing experts Tornello.Mohsin is a highly sort after for his lectures and practical work shops – often been invited to chair many talks, notably for Bluezone / Munich Fabric Start, Denim PV trade shows and Denim Expo in Bangladesh - Mohsin often get asks to give lectures to entire design teams. In Oct 2014 he was invited to Malmö Sweden to give a inspiration lecture to IKEAs 150 Design Team.In 2014 Mohsin was invited to be expert and adviser for the British High Court, where he wrote expert reports for the biggest denim case in 2014. He was summoned to give evidence, when the case was heard at trial.In 2019 Mohsin partnered up with Kingpins show under his Denim History educational platform – where a number of his Ravensbourne students were selected to present their work at Kingpins Amsterdam and New York shows. From October 2019 Mohsin will also be hosting the 1st UK Kingpins Transformers ED event geared for fashion students – where over 30 colleges are invited.Since 2012 Mohsin established his own ENDRIME Denim Workshop, and consultancy, focusing on modern ergonomic denim fits with clean construction. He loves exploring modern and lost constructions methods and combining his research in relatively uncharted areas in Denim Design. He is a non-believer of fast and cheap methods of production. ENDRIME has shown at a number of International trade shows : Jacket Required – LONDON, Capsule – PARIS, Liberty Fairs – NYC, CCSHOW – YOKOHAMA, Denim Boulevard – MILAN, SOLE DXB – DUBAI, WeAr Select - LONDON and Selvedge Run – BERLIN.He is currently writing his 1st book on denim manufacturing processes; a comprehensive textbook from 1870 to modern ergonomic denim of today, which he hopes to complete in 2020.

MOHSIN SAJID

DENIM MAKING + DENIM THEORY MASTERCLASS
28th, 29th and 30th August 2018 
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Aug 28th – - 10:30am – 4pm - Denim History Lecture 
Aug 29th - – 9:15am- 5:30pm - 5 pocket selvedge master class – part 1
Aug 30th – 9:45am- 5:30pm - 5 pocket selvedge master class – part 2
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3 DAYS DENIM SCHOOL, led by Denim Designer Mohsin Sajid in the heart of London, with 1st day consisting of a day long Denim History lecture, followed by 2 practical days denim making class, where each participant will make a 5 pocket selvedge jean from chalking, cutting and completion. All fabrics and trims supplied. 
Each person will get to cut & sew a Selvedge Jean, step by step. True 1930s and 1950s construction with added features from a continuous fly, clean construction, single needle felled seams & making all garments without any overlocking. 
You will leave with a pair of premium jeans personally made by you, including all textile materials (buttons, rivets, pocketing etc.) and access to a fountain of knowledge by the master of denim Mohsin Sajid. You’ll also have a fantastic three-day experience with like-minded denim enthusiasts.
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What is supplied:
It is recommended that each participant brings their own fabric scissors (large and small) to help the class move along in a good pace.
All Selvedge Denim, pocketing fabric, trims, thread, tracing chalk and sewing pins will be supplied on the course. But if you wish to bring your own selvedge denim, make sure its 3 metres of selvedge denim (narrow denim about 28" width is best) we will be using 100% cotton denim fabric in between 12 and 14oz.
Please note we will not be using any stretch fabrics on this course. 
A good selection of sewing threads will be available from Mohsin’s own Endrime studio if you want to bring a selection of colours, make sure they are thick thread and they are colours that work well together with the desired denim shade. 
 
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ADDITONAL INFO
Limited to 20 Participants
 Open to general public, and fashion and design students. This course is only open for participants over 18 years old due to health and safely at the university. If there is interest from anyone under 18 then please email: info@denimhistory.com with your request, we will see what we can manage.
Warning: Industrial sewing machines will be used on the 2nd and 3rd day, some Industrial machines we will put on slower speed setting - but this course is really for medium to advance sewers.
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Location : Ravensbourne University (opposite the O2 ) 
6 Penrose Way, London SE10 0EW 
Nearest tube station is North Greenwich (Jubilee Line), twenty minutes from Oxford Circus.  
We are a 1 minute walk from the station.
 
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DAY 1 -- 10:30am - 4pm (Lunch Break from 1pm-2pm)
DENIM HISTORY LECTURE: UNDERSTANDING DENIM
A daylong lecture will cover denim history, key historical brands and their input in denim and workwear today. New denim renaissance, cotton, yarn & denim manufacturing processes including natural indigo vs synthetic indigo, denim terminologies, strengths of using original shuttle looms, different weaves, different thicknesses and their strengths of right and left hand twill. Selvedge denim vs. non selvedge and different types of washing treatments and finishes. We will cover the anatomy of a 5 pocket pair of jeans. Thread sizes, colours, metal sundries colours in relation to denim shades. You will see videos of the cotton process from harvest to yarn and denim manufacturing from denim factories in USA, Turkey, China and Japan.
Throughout the lecture, there will be many examples of pre 1920’s vintage pieces and a selection of 40 other denim samples from Mohsin’s Endrime archive to talk through the construction methods and special details in each jean.
The final section of the lecture will cover key details that make a jean, and different finishes that are applied to the denim and at different levels of the market. We will talk about sustainability in the denim making process and touch on the impact of costs, quantities, garment manufacturing and lead times, when selecting fibres and fabrics. New textile developments will also be highlighted throughout the session.
This one-day lecture will also give participants the opportunity to understand this complex product type, and ask questions. 
 
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DAY 2 - 9:15AM- 5:30PM - ADVANCED DENIM MASTERCLASSES (PART 1) - 
5 pocket Selvedge Jean construction ( based on a ENDRIME selvedge Jean )
 
 
9:15 Please arrive at 9:15
9:30 Introduction
9:35 Course starts! Health & safety instructions / sign forms
10:00 Select block (Either mens slim or women’s Boyfriend )
10:15 CHALKING OUT - CUTTING OUT A JEAN - LAYPLAN - USING THE SELVEDGE IN A SPECIAL WAY
11:00 Cut out your jean
11:30 Start MAKING A JEAN: FRONT POCKET BAGS, POCKET BEARER, ATTACHING TO FRONT PANELS
13:00-13:45 Lunch
13:45 - 17:30 - KEY HOLE BUTTON FOR THE CONTINUOUS ONE PIECE FLY, ATTACHING THE FLY, RUN AND FELL CROTCH SEAM, BACK PANELS, ATTACHING THE YOKE - FELLED SEAMS
17:30 Finish / TIDY UP 
 
 
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DAY 3 - 9:45AM- 5:30PM - ADVANCED DENIM MASTERCLASSES (PART 2) - 
5 pocket Selvedge Jean construction ( based on a ENDRIME selvedge Jean )
 
9:45 Please arrive at 9.45
10:00 Course starts!
10:00 ATTACHING BACK POCKETS - CONCEALED RIVETS - MISS STITCHES !
11:30 FELLING THE BACK PANELS
13:00-13:45 Lunch
13:45 - 17:45 - FELLING IN INSEAM, SEWING UP THE SELVAGE SEAM, SIDE SEAM SAFETY STITCH, ATTACHING THE WAISTBAND ( WITH TAILORED BELT LOOPS ), TOP WAISTBAND BUTTON HOLE, + ATTACHING LEATHER PATCH - IN A CONTINUOUS STITCH. ATTACHING BUTTONS, HEMMING THE JEAN
(course might run over 18:00 depending upon speed of sewing) BUT everyone will be finished -

Ravensbourne University

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DENIM MAKING + DENIM THEORY MASTERCLASS

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